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Help Page - Rotating Electrics

These help pages are designed as a guide only

Some faults with the electrical system can have misleading symptoms; what may seem like a faulty starter or alternator could be caused by a problem with the battery, a bad earth cable or even the engine management system. A common fault on older cars is when a voltage-sensing alternator is fitted and there is no 12 volt supply to the unit (for example if your battery is already flat) then the unit will not produce a charging current. This is not a fault, it is done by design. If in any doubt about the electrics on your vehicle then please consult an experienced, qualified auto electrician. Quite often we find that normal mechanics are unable to diagnose some of these electrical problems successfully.

Things to watch out for when ordering.

Multiple parts may be listed for your car details. Most of our parts listings are accompanied by either a photograph or a diagram showing dimensions, shape and the power rating of an item. It is your resposibility to check these against the items fitted to your car. If you are in aby doubt then call us before ordering. Where there are a nunber of alternate parts listed for your car (particularly where there are differing power outputs) these units are not always interchangeable.

Charging System Problems

Noisy Alternator

Loose mountings
Loose drive pulley
Worn bearings
Brush noise
Internal circuits shorted (High pitched whine)

Squeal when starting engine or accelerating

Glazed or loose belt
Broken fan belt
Broken or disconnected wires
Internal alternator problems
Defective voltage regulator

Car light bulbs continually burn out-battery needs water continually

Alternator/regulator overcharging battery

Car lights flare on acceleration

Battery low
Internal alternator/ regulator problems

Low voltage output (alternator light flickers continually or ammeter needle wanders)

Loose or worn belt
Dirty or corroded connections
Internal alternator/ regulator problems

Starting Problems

Engine does not crank (Solenoid or relay does not click)

Dead battery
Loose, corroded or broken connections
Corroded battery terminals (lights will usually light)
Faulty ignition switch
Faulty neutral safety switch or clutch switch (To test: push on brake pedal, hold key in start position and move shift lever or clutch pedal)
Defective starter switch, relay or solenoid

Engine will not crank (Solenoid or relay clicks)

Low or "dead" battery
Corroded battery terminals or cables
Defective starter solenoid or relay
Defective starter motor (if current is passed through relay or solenoid)

Starter motor cranks slowly

Low battery
Loose, corroded or broken connections
Cable size too small
Internal starter motor problems
Engine oil too heavy
Ignition timing too far advanced

Starter spins, but will not crank engine

Broken starter drive gear
Broken flywheel teeth

Noisy starter motor

Starter mounting loose
Worn starter drive gear or flywheel teeth
Worn starter bushings